Here, the second edition of Music Muse, a monthly column edited by Assia Grazioli-Venier, Shopbop style ambassador and founder/CEO of London-based Flypaper Media. In this column, Assia profiles a style leader in the music world. This month, Lina West of Caviare Days talks about the first time she caught a wave.
Lina Westin of Caviare Days. Photo by Johannes Helje.
The first time I caught a real wave while surfing was in Costa Rica, 2006. It was not one of those whitewater beginner’s waves close to the shore on a longboard. No, it was a clean, crystal-clear, smooth wave shimmering in the early morning light. I knew it was meant for me, and I started paddling toward its breaking point.
The moment before I took off felt like an eternity. The huge wall of water behind me shut out every sound and light and left me in dark silence. Millions of thoughts and feelings passed by but only one remained: my focus on the board, my body, my balance, and the wave. I was scared and completely calm at the same time.
Suddenly I found myself flying. I was one with the ocean and with the wind. I felt reborn and laughed with the morning sun in my face. Life and death turned into simple words. I was dancing with my demons and my inner gods, and everything made sense.
I got off the wave in perfect time. It washed the shore with such a power, only to return calmly back to the ocean and merge with the other waves. That specific wave is gone forever, but my feeling remains like a loop in my mind.